A bowl of pork dumplings in a rich brown sauce from Departure Restaurant, Portland, OR

Departure Restaurant, at The Nines, Portland, Oregon

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If you, like me, are a fan of TV cooking shows, especially Top Chef, then you really need to put the pan-Asian fusion restaurant Departure, in downtown Portland, Oregon, on your must-eat-at list. It’s helmed by Chef Gregory Gourdet, who was a Season 12 finalist. If you’re not a fan of the show, you still …

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